Houston’s Newest Steakhouse Is a Swanky Showstopper That Channels Mexico City — Toca Madera Keeps It Fire Next to The Thompson Hotel

In a city rife with steakhouses, Toca Madera brings something a little different to Houston. This stylish new import, created by the international restaurant group Noble 33, aims to transport diners to the heart of Mexico City. Situated on the campus of the new Thompson Hotel on the ground floor of the Pavilion at The Allen, the splashy opening of this 14,000-square-foot space marks the fourth locale of Toca Madera, a restaurant that launched in West Hollywood nearly a decade ago. This is also the very first time Noble 33 has broken ground in Texas.

But notably, it won’t be their only restaurant here. The company has plans to open Meduza Mediterrania later this fall in the same area of the city.

Drive down Allen Parkway to the new Toca Madera’s entrance and you can’t help but notice the woven bronze-like art piece dubbed the bird’s nest that serves both as its engaging entry, as well as portico where under the cover of branches, hanging Spanish moss, willow leaves and wisteria vines intertwined within the airy metal cage allow diners to enjoy alfresco dining on a cool evening. Designed inside and out by the restaurant group’s in-house design firm Monochrome, it appears the directive was to aim for bold and dramatic with biophilic elements like that aforementioned bird’s nest and life-like trees that take root inside from the floor extending its branches upwards.

The dining room and separate bar area pulsate with an electric-like atmosphere (care of a bustling open kitchen and a cadre of live nightly entertainment). Built to seat 317, the interiors of Houston’s own Toca Madera are appointed with dark architectural elements like an undulating slate wood ceiling, custom woodwork throughout, warm brass accents and half-moon velvet upholstered banquettes that envelope you in comfort.

Carla Lorenzo, the beverage director, mans the bar, where she crafts a farm-to-glass mixology menu emphasizing fresh, seasonal ingredients while offering a versatile selection of tequila and mezcal. Cult favorites include the como la flor ($23), made with edible flowers and a blast of rose air and the !no mames! made with mezcal, rum, passion fruit and pineapple with a snap of spicy ginger root ($20).

The Toca Madera Menu

Houston executive chef Christian Brennen oversees the Toca Madera kitchen, which leans on a larder of sustainably caught seafood and organic ingredients. For starters, don’t miss the unctuous queso fundido ($17), a melted blend of chihuahua cheese, soyrizo (a soy-based chorizo sausage) with sauteed onions and mushrooms to be rolled in warm flour tortillas. One of the signature apps is the crispy wonton taco (two per order, $34) cradled with A5 Wagyu, wasabi, spring onions and delicate micro shiso leaves.

Desire to be even more extravagant? Order up the Mariscos, an array of impeccably fresh chilled seafood including oysters, jumbo prawns, king crab and lobster tail on ice (for $195 or $325 depending on the size). I can attest the smaller size can easily be shared among four people.

While there are ample selections to sate the fussiest pescatarians among us (BTW don’t miss the Mayan prawns at $58; these are giant shrimp napped with a chipotle mezcal butter with charred fresno chiles), Toca Madera is billed as a Mexican steakhouse after all and delivers a variety of beef. That means everything from certified black angus petite filet ($52/6 ounce) to prime cuts culled from Missouri’s Creekstone Farms to Mishima reserve American Wagyu.

The night I dined, a neighboring table of four gentlemen ordered the Flintstone-size 40-ounce flaming tomahawk ($325). The mighty cut was wheeled to their table ablaze, dangling from a hook, the flames licking the massive bone-in cut. I, on the other hand, prefer a smaller portion and indulged in the olive Sanuki wagyu ($52 ounce). Like that nearby table, the four delicate slices were brought on a guéridon equipped with a grill and cooked table side, with a side of sea salt and chimichurri sauce to season to taste.

And what’s a steakhouse without the sides? At Toca Madera, they range from items like truffle-scented fries ($29) or mac and cheese ($18) to street corn ($14) and black beans ($9).

Other Mexican-inspired dishes include short rib enchiladas ($38), chicken al pastor ($34) with pineapple salsa and diver scallops with aji Amarillo salsa ($52). Those who find themselves dining at Toca Madera frequently may want to consider a membership. The perks include special members-only menu items, wine, access to a private speakeasy and more.

Desserts, while pricey, are extraordinarily well crafted and include a fresh strawberry tres leches ($20), its sweet vanilla cake imbibed with a cream anglaise and a brown butter cake ($22), a mini bundt-like cake accompanied with a bourbon toffee sauce, berry coulis and vanilla bean ice cream.

Toca Madera can be foind at the Pavilion at The Allen (1755 Allen Parkway). In this initial opening phase, the steakhouse is open from Tuesdays through Thursdays from 5 pm to midnight; Fridays and Saturdays from 5 pm to 1 am and Sundays from 5 pm to midnight. It is closed Mondays.