Wines From Down Under — These Australian Wines Deserve Respect and a Place At Your Table

Australia’s been on my mind often as of late, for several reasons. One, I’m re-reading Patrick White’s The Solid Mandala, which I first immersed myself in during a seminar taught by my favorite university professor H.E. Francis. Secondly, I’m researching Western Australia for a trip I plan to make. Finally, I recently completed a tasting series of some wines from Down Under that impressed me greatly.

Xanadu made three of the Australian wines I tasted, all from the Margaret River region. They are part the brand’s Circa 77 range, created to commemorate the year –1977 – in which the first vines were planted at the estate. I sampled the 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2023 Sauvignon Blanc/Semillion blend, and the 2022 Chardonnay (all come with a suggested retail price of $18.99).

The Margaret River is a fascinating wine region. More than 36 grape varieties are grown on roughly 14,400 acres, and the first vines in the area were planted in 1967, according to the Margaret River Wine Association. It boasts more than 200 wineries, many of them small, family-owned operations. Cabernet sauvignon is the most widely planted grape there, followed by sauvignon blanc and chardonnay. If the wines produced in this Mediterranean-climate region are new to you, these three Xanadu selections are a great place to start.

First thing to know: The wines are fun. Fun to drink, fun to serve, fun to share. And that in no way implies that quality is lacking. These wines are made well, and possess a freshness and vitality that say “Open me immediately.”

That Drink Me Now directive applies especially well to the sauvignon blanc/ semillon blend, which is 70 percent of the former and 30 percent of the latter. Bracingly dry, crisp, lively. . . those three adjectives come immediately to mind when drinking this wine. You’ll note the bright citrus (helmed by lime) on the nose, as well as a hint of tarragon.

In the mouth there will be honeysuckle and a barely discernible mélange of baker’s spices. You’ll want to chill this well and serve with shrimp poached in olive oil. I know this is a great pairing because it’s what I prepared when I drank the rest of the bottle with a meal on the day following my sampling session. The wine was still vibrant. Fruit comes from the Wallcliffe subregion of Margaret River, mostly from Xanadu’s Boodjidup and Lagan vineyards.

The chardonnay continues the vibrancy. I’ll start with a food pairing: a lemon farfalle dish with garlic. Sprinkle fresh Italian parsley and grated Parmigiano Reggiano on this dish and you have a fine meal. This Margaret River chardonnay – 12.8 percent alcohol – is light on oak and did not undergo malolactic fermentation. Apple and pear notes dominate the bouquet, while white peach and citrus linger in the mouth. Drink now, or hold for a year or two.

Embracing Xanadu

The final Xanadu wine in my tasting session, the 2020 cabernet sauvignon, has a lot to offer for the price. It is 86 percent cabernet sauvignon, five percent cabernet franc, four percent merlot and two percent petit verdot. Alcohol comes in at 14 percent. The wine’s red hue is deep and serious, and on first taste the cassis and graphite come at you with grace, as do eucalyptus, black fruit and deftly applied oak.

This wine is ready for your table now – pair it with a rib eye and potato au gratin with Gruyère – or cellar until 2027.

Xanadu was founded by Dr. John Lagan and his wife Eithne in 1969, and the name, as you might surmise, comes from Coleridge. Lagan, a lover of literature, was fond of his new landholdings, so wanted to give it a fitting name. The estate now includes a restaurant and tasting room, and produces a variety of wines. Check out the Stevens Road single-vineyard range and the Xanadu Reserve lineup for higher-end selections.

As always, ask for these wines at your favorite merchant, or purchase directly from the producer, though in this case the latter route is likely not convenient for residents of the United States.

I’ve got more wines from Australia on my agenda, as well as a look at this year’s edition of World of Pinot Noir, so stay tuned.

For more wine, food, travel and other stories from James Brock, check out Mise en Place.