Enjoying the Best of Both Hospitality Worlds in Berlin — A Five-Star Stalwart and an Edgy Boutique Hotel With Uniforms by Viktor & Rolf

I recently found myself in Berlin. It was a whirlwind trip, but filled with lots of fun (meaning: dining, shopping, and cocktailing). You’ll find my entire list of things you “must do” in our September issue. But in the meantime, if you feel like heading to Germany’s capital — their peak travel season is pretty much now through early fall (and of course for Octoberfest), then I’ll share the two spots where I chose to lay my weary head (from that aforementioned shopping and cocktailing).

The city offers a myriad of choices that run from high-end lux to what you might imagine a broke college student might hovel at while backpacking across Europe. Apparently, that wasn’t the case in the decade after the “wall” came down as the city attempted to find its niche within the overall European vacation landscape. Over the past 10 to 15 years, more and more options have emerged that range from chic and intimate boutique’y-type establishments to larger mega-chain outposts with even more on the way.

Berlin Hotel #1: The Ritz-Carlton

The five-star hotel with white glove service offers 303 guest rooms and suites. I was fortunate to find myself on the Club Lounge level (10^th floor) and was given exclusive access to this luxury oasis within the hotel.

There were meals and snacks provided throughout the day and access to a concierge (who also can handle check-in if there is a line in the ground floor lobby). I was a little concerned with getting sick by indulging in any German delicacies that my stomach might not be used to. I thoroughly enjoyed all of my breakfasts at the hotel which included a variety of fresh-baked pastries with interesting jams (not the standard strawberry you’d find in a US establishment), and of course sausages. There was also an abundance of fresh-squeezed juices — making me feel like I was getting a healthy start to my day. Lunches were finger sandwiches, salads, and soups and dinner was light with an emphasis on hors d’oeuvres, crudite, and an assortment of wines. And best of all, on the few occasions I needed a midnight snack, a portion of the lounge is kept upon round-the-clock for you to pick-up sodas, juices, cookies and other snacks.

The rooms are spacious by most European standards. I was in a room that was close to 450 square feet with a king bed, seating area, and small desk for working. Also, the bathroom was quite large with a separate shower and bath. The decor was subdued with touches of the overall redesign as an ode to the glamorous 1920s Art Deco era.

At my recent stay I encountered a wide variety of fellow guests — Asians looking like they were prepared for some marathon sessions of luxury shopping, European businessmen wheeling and dealing contract negotiations, and a few couples obviously enjoying a romantic getaway. I chatted up a few of them over drinks at one of the hotel’s dining options — The Curtain Club. Located appropriately behind dramatic curtains, the space channels the spirit of the roaring twenties with an extensive cocktail selection and live music on select days.

Unfortunately, I didn’t have a chance to dine at POTS, the ground floor restaurant which offers up classic German fare but with a modern interpretation by Chef de Cuisine Christopher Kujanski. I was thoroughly intrigued by the six-course menu offering that I will set aside time to try on my next stay at the hotel.

Hotel #2: SO/Berlin Das Stue

After staying at The Ritz-Carlton for a few days, I decided to try something a little more boutique’y and avant-garde. If you are looking to do the same while in this city known for edgy nightlife and fashion that seems taken straight from a Jason Bourne film, then book a room (or better yet a suite) at SO/Berlin Das Stue.

A fashion designer friend I grew up with, Daniel Wingate (he’s based in Munich but you can find his collection carried at boutiques throughout Texas including the Saks Fifth Avenue in Houston) was the one that suggested that I stay at least one night at this beautiful hotel. I was so happy I took him up on that recommendation. As it is not on a major road and directly adjacent to the Tiergarten it felt more private than the Ritz. During my initial research I was intrigued to find that famed Dutch fashion line Viktor & Rolf (named for founders Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren) had been part of the design process of the hotel.

When I pulled up, I found a few sleek (not gaudy sports models, more quiet luxury vehicles) cars with a few sleek drivers and passengers. The valet was wearing a brocaded car coat that was instantly recognizable as a Viktor & Rolf creation. Located in the embassy district, the heritage-protected (their version of historic preservation) building is the former Royal Danish Embassy that was built by KaDeWe architect Johann Emil Schaudt in the late 1930s. The curved street-front façade, clad with shell limestone panels, recalls the commercial building architecture that was popular in the 1920s and 30s. Schaudt created an interesting entrance hall covered with travertine and granite, which is flanked by sensuous lateral staircases.

You’ll also find interiors graced with elegant parquet floors, restored wooden inlays, dramatic floor-to-ceiling windows allowing for an abundance of light in some of the public spaces, and overall seamless integration of vintage and modern. Noted interior designer Patricia Urquiola is responsible for that interplay of historic backdrop and contemporary furnishings (with pieces selected from Molteni and B&B Italia). She also added whimsical touches like art objects and surreal leather animals from Omersa & Co, as a wink to the hotel’s wild neighbors — the animals at the Berlin Zoo.

My check-in was humorous since the young man, once again, who looked plucked straight from a Viktor & Rolf runway show (they designed all the staff uniforms), had stunted English. I noticed a few racks of clothes adjacent to the entry desk which intrigued me — was it a store for the Dutch designers that was so cool and under the radar that it needn’t advertise itself with any crass signage. Or an art installation. Or simply a valet area for checked clothing.

My room was smaller than what I had at The Ritz, but I found it to be extremely comfortable with every bit of space in the room sensibly used. And the most enchanting aspect of my room — the view of the giraffe yard of the Zoo.

Likely the most unique feature I’ve ever found at a hotel: those previously mentioned racks of clothes. Well, I found out that evening while chatting with the bartender, that they are an exquisite and intriguing selection of garments, curated by Viktor & Rolf. Not only items from their past collections but other designers they admire as well. Unfortunately, there were no Viktor & Rolf garments for sale (I was coveting that valet’s coat every time I saw them), but I did take home one souvenir, the slippers with a whimsical animal drawing I found in my room’s closet that was designed by the Dutch duo.