Oysters, Anyone?

Liberty Kitchen & Oysterette

Laurann Claridge
December 16, 2013

Look who’s at it again: concepteur Lee Ellis and his F.E.E.D. TX chums — an acronym created from the initials of the partners (chef Lance Fegen, Carl Eaves, Ellis himself and Will Davis), who also brought us BRC and Petite Sweets. This time, they’ve reinvented their original Heights concept Liberty Kitchen and added “Oysterette” to the name, meaning a small seafood kitchenette. Positioned inside the loop at the edge of River Oaks, LKRO feels like a chic brasserie. The light-filled dining room boasts copper-topped tables, black-and-white penny hexagonal tiles and a circular bar with cocktails on one side and a robata grill on the other. Ellis and Eaves — the design minds behind all the restaurant and retail concepts developed by F.E.E.D. TX — ferret for everything from lighting (much of it found in Paris) to art (large photos of American barns) to the Art Guys’ yardstick installation above the communal table. Chef Fegen’s menu lets you dabble through a meal with small plates, such as big-eye tuna takaki with a spicy mayo dipping sauce ($4.75) or Pacific salmon hot-smoked in a banana leaf ($4.50). Or go big with a hand-chopped salmon burger or pasta carbonara layered with pork belly ($18 each). Feeling more adventurous? Try the Japanese A5 Waygu Loin, a two-ounce portion smoked and served with seared foie gras and a soy-maple syrup reduction ($40). For dessert, try Susan Molzan’s decadent American-style layer cakes and pies. 4224 San Felipe St., 713.622.1010, libertykitchenoysterette.com.