Tidal Rave

Spoon Bar & Kitchen

Donna Scoggins
December 04, 2012

With his well-documented penchant for the dramatic, it’s easy to forget that five-star chef John Tesar received classical French training at La Varenne Ecole de Cuisine in Paris then logged hours in the kitchen with Anthony Bourdain, merited a James Beard nomination, nabbed the top kitchen job at The Mansion and walked away $10,000 richer on Extreme Chef throughout the course of his 20-year career. And with the opening of his much-ballyhooed Spoon Bar & Kitchen in Preston Center, gourmands will no doubt be reminded that this game-changer isn’t apt to open a seafood restaurant and merely serve shrimp. Inside the serene Breckenridge Taylor-designed space, foodies can choose from several different posts in which to savor Tesar’s inventive offerings: The raw bar is a good perch for sipping a cocktail and sampling Kumamoto oysters, Golden Osetra caviar and lobster crudo; adventurers might opt for the chef’s tasting menu, which changes nightly, or belly up to the kitchen counter and dive into razor clam tartare, barely cooked arctic char, monkfish osso bucco, or smoked eel “head cheese”; and canoodlers can slide into an intimate booth and skip straight to dessert — a caramel pudding pavé of peanut butter streusel with bananas brûlée finished with micro basil and sea salt. Sure, he may have a bad-boy reputation, but if the above is what he’s dishing out, we’ll take it. 8220-B Westchester Dr., 855.947.7666; spoonbarandkitchen.com.