- November 29, 2010
Keys to the Door: Owner Michael Cordúa, corporate chef David Cordúa, general manager Angeles Dueñas.
What’s on the Menu: Michael Cordúa and his talented progeny, Paris-trained chef David Cordúa, never disappoint when it comes to capturing the drama of a meal out. Their latest pan-Latin endeavor, Américas in River Oaks Shopping Center, delivers everything you’ve come to expect from their New World anthropological explorations. The design of this third outpost of Américas — the original is on Post Oak, with a second in the Woodlands — was again conceptualized by Chicago superstar designer Jordan Mozer. He created a tapestry of South, Central and North American cultures and foodstuffs (chocolate, tomatoes, beans, potatoes, cassava, corn, peppers and squash — essentials in the Milpa method of harvesting crops) to adorn the sensual surrounds of the second-floor space. Mozer weaves mystery with intimacy through curvaceous, custom resin chairs, worn leather draped over columns and chairs, and blown-glass chandeliers in playful, amorphous shapes. Cuts of beef and fish take center stage among the entrées, but veer to the left side of the menu for smaller samplings, such as a flight of ceviches ($16 — the salmon is a standout) or a quad of mini taquitos ($16). From plaintain-crusted shrimp to beef short ribs, you can nibble your way from one robust, visually artful dish to the next. And whatever you do, don’t miss the small plates of smoked lamb lollichops ($14) or the lobster corndogs ($11). River Oaks Shopping Center, 2040 W. Gray; 832.200.1492; cordua.com/americas.
Image: David Cordúa and Michael Cordúa; by Jenny Antill